First-Time Sailing (Croatia): Family Tips and Itinerary

Our first sailing trip was meticulously planned for an entire year, both financially and logistically. For most of us, it would be our first time on a sailboat, so we wanted to make sure everything was well prepared. Another reason for the careful planning was that We would have four children under 13 on board. Our crew consisted of two families - ours and our friends' - each with two adults and two children, as well as a skipper (our captain) who also happened to be a friend.

Gounod, our 4-cabin 14.5 m Jeanneau Sun Odyssey that we hired for a week

We flew to Croatia and picked up our sailboat, Gounod, from a small marina near Šibenik, just north of Split on the Adriatic coast. It was a 15-metre sailboat with four cabins (10 berths) - perfect for our two families and our skipper. We chartered Gounod for a full week, from Saturday to Saturday, during our children's May school holidays. Our first sailing adventure quickly became one of our favourite coastal holidays. Here I'll share some tips for families with kids and young teens who are considering a sailing holidays. At the end, I've also included our itinerary and the highlights of our week at sea.

Choose the low season over the high-season. Wherever you sail - whether Croatia, Greece, Italy, or elsewhere - July and August can be challenging. Boat rentals are more expensive, marinas and bays fill up quickly, beaches are crowded, and getting a table at restaurants often requires a reservation. We chose the end of May, which turned out to be ideal. Every bay where we spent the night, whether at anchor or on a mooring buoy, had plenty of space. The beaches were peaceful, the sea was still a little chilly but good enough for swimming, the sun was shining, the air was warm, and the wind conditions were excellent for sailing. Best of all, there were no crowds in the restaurants. According to our captain, October can be even better, as the sea is usually warmer while the crowds remain small.

Our first night spent on Prvić Island

Choose your skipper - and your crew - wisely. We were fortunate that our skipper was a friend. If you need to hire one, try to find someone trough a trusted recommendation - a friend of a friend, or a skipper who has already sailed with people you know. Commanding a sailboat is a demanding job, often under unpredictable weather and sea conditions, so you want someone experienced, calm, and easy to communicate with. The same applies to the people you're sailing with. Choose companions whose company you genuinely enjoy - both for the adults and the children. A sailboat is a small space, and for a week you're living together with nowhere else to escape to. You need to be able to relax, have fun, and enjoy. We shared this adventure with friends we've known for more than 12 years. Our children are best friends, and we've travelled together before, so we know each other's habits, rhythms, and travel styles.

Our kids paddling from the sailboat toward Magarac (Donkey) Island

Don't overplan the route, go with the wind. Sailing depends heavily on the wind, unless you're happy to rely on the engine most of the time. If you plan a very specific route and the wind isn't in your favour on certain days, you may end up frustrated. Instead, choose a sailing area with plenty of islands and sheltered bays, and decide day by day where to head next. That's exactly what we did, and it led us to some of the most beautiful bays, beaches, and islands.

Do plan your meals, though. On our first day aboard, we did a large grocery shop and stocked up for the week. Our plan was simple: have breakfast on board every day, prepare either lunch or dinner on board, and enjoy the other meal at a local restaurant wherever we stopped. Before the trip, we made a list of easy meals we could cook, and it worked remarkably well. Not every island or bay has restaurants, so it's wise to be prepared for days you'll need to cook both lunch and dinner. One of our favourite meals happened on the very last day. While moored in a bay on Tijat Island, local fisherman came by boat, caught fresh fish, frilled on the spot and delivered directly to our sailboat.

Sandy beach of Sakarun on Dugi Otok (Long Island) where we spent our fourth night

Share all costs and agree on a budget in advance. If you're comfortable doing so, setting up a shared travel fund can make the financial side of the trip much easier. Since sailing come with many shared expenses - from boat charter and marina fees to groceries and restaurant meals - it helps to agree on a budget well before departure. For us, the arrangement was simple. Each of the four adults contributed €100 per month to a joint fund for an entire year. By the time our trip began, we had accumulated €4.800, which comfortably covered the boat charter and all other expenses including meals, groceries, mooring buoys, marina fees, etc., for the entire trip. Spreading the cost over many months made the trip much more affordable and allowed us to enjoy the holiday without constantly worrying about who owed what.

Pack less than you think you'll need. No matter how carefully you pack, chances are you'll bring too much. Cabins on sailboat are compact, storage space is limited. We all packed as if we were going in a regular holiday - seven outfits each and a full suitcase per person. Classic beginner's mistake. For most of the week, we practically lived in our swimsuits, throwing on a pair of linen trousers and a light shirt when needed. Less is really more.

Be prepared for motion sickness. Even if you don't think anyone in your group is prone to seasickness, it's worth coming prepared. We were lucky - none of us experience significant seasickness. My husband had some mild nausea on a few occasions, but never became serious enough to require medication. We had brought acupressure wristband as a precaution, and they seemed to work wonders. 

Most importantly: relax and enjoy it. Enjoy the sailing, the views, the freedom of waking up in different bay each morning, and the company of the people you're sharing the adventure with. Slow down, embrace the rhythm of life at sea. Come home with sun-kissed skin, salty hair, and memories you'll be talking about for years.

Sandy beach of Podbrizi on Vrgada Island

Our Sailing Iinerary to Inspire You:

Day 1: We picked up our sailboat, Gounod, in Marina Zaton near Šibenik and set sail in the afternoon. Our first destination was Prvić Island, where we dropped anchor for the night. We celebrated the start of our adventure with a wonderful seaside dinner at Restaurant Val.

Day 2: We spent the morning exploring Prvić Island and attempted to visit Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre, but unfortunately it was closed. We then sailed to Kaprije Island and enjoyed a swim in the Blue Lagoon before continuing to Žirje Island, where we spent the night on a mooring buoy.

Day 3: The day was dedicated to the spectacular Kornati National Park. We stopped for swimming around the Žakan Islets before sailing to Levrnaka Island, where we anchored for the night in the stunning sandy bay of Lojena.

Day 4: We set off early and sailed north towards Telašćica Nature Park. After a swim in the famous Salt Lake, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at Konoba Gospoja. In the afternoon, we sailed along the dramatic Cliffs of Dugi Otok (Long Island) before reaching Sakarun Bay, where we spend the night on a buoy. The kids had and amazing time on teh bay's sandy beach. 

Day 5: We started the day snorkeling around the wreck of the sunked ship Michelle, located near the northern tip of Dugi Otok. After rounding the island, we stopped in Veli Rat Marina to refill our water tanks. Later, we sailed south to Rava Island, where we spent the night on a buoy and enjoyed a fantastic dinner at Konoba Dellicia. The children also made a new friend - a local poodle named Afro. 

Day 6: After a quick grocery refill still on Rava Island, we headed to Magarac (Donkey) Island, where the kids brought some vegetables to the donkeys. Following a leisurerly swim, we sailed south to Vrgada Island, where se anchored for the night and enjoyed pizzas for dinner at Pizza Fjaka. 

Day 7: We spent the morning on Podbrizi Beach, a lovely sandy beach on Vrgada that quicly became a favourite with the children. In the afternoon, we sailed to Tijat Island for our final night aboard. We moored on a buoy and were treated to one of the most memorable meals of the trip: freshly caught fish grilled on a local boat and delivered directly to our boat. After dinner, we explored the island with the kids by torchlights, which was fun and adventurous. 

Day 8: We woke up early, packed our bags, and sailed back to Marina Zaton, where we finally, sadly, had to return Gounod, our beloved sailboat...