Bali: Our 14-Day Family Adventure

Last time we were in Indonesia, we visited Lombok Island (here are our tips). This year, the kids finally managed to convince us that it was time to spend our holiday in Bali! With all of the TikToks they've been seeing and everything else filling their feeds, Bali has become much more appealing to them now that they're a little older. As for me, I still have a soft spot for quieter, more secluded islands like Lombok and Flores - but sometimes you must let the kids have their way!

Boni Bali Restaurant overlooking the Tegalalang Rice Terraces

I didn't want us to spend the entire 14 days in the same spot, so I decided to split our stay between three bases: Nusa Dua, Ubud, and Sanur - and in that order for a reason. This time, I wanted to skip Kuta. We spent quite a lot of time there in the past, but with the kids, I don't find it as appealing anymore. Instead, I wanted a holiday that combined adventure, cultural, great food and nature, while still leaving us enough time for some pampering and relaxation. To make it even more fun, we were joined by another family - our friends, whose child is a good friend of our daughters.

NUSA DUA was our first base because it felt like the perfect soft landing after Europe: a well-planned developed area with great infrastructure, big resorts, beautiful beaches, and a more enclosed, relaxed atmosphere. I thought it'd be an easier introduction to Bali for my family and friends before heading into the more hectic side of the island later in the trip - with its traffic jams, crowds, and chaos. Nusa Dua Beach, just behind our resort (we stayed in Novotel), became our go-to spot for relaxed mornings and late afternoons, usually with few fresh coconuts. One of the most memorable meals during our Nusa Dua stay was a full  Balinese dinner at Rustic Bali at Bali Collection.

Enjoying a relaxed morning on Nusa Dua Beach

Surfing class was the first activity we did with Raja Surf Lesson. Our kids had tried surfing three years earlier in Lombok, but this time they went farther, tackling bigger waves that broke for longer. The two-hour session was therefore much more fun and educational. 

Jimbaran sunset dinner was a big hit with our group! We arrived well before dinner time, so we had plenty of time to enjoy the beach and watch proper sunset. The food was amazing, and the kids absolutely devoured the freshly grilled crabs and clams. There are plenty of eateries to choose from along the beach, we went for Warung Ramayana.

Uluwatu Temple was where my youngest managed to lose her brand-new prescription glasses to a monkey - which, to be fair, was entirely our fault because you're not supposed to interact with the wild monkeys, and she did! Despite the glasses incident, Uluwatu is an incredible cliffside temple, especially around sunset, when you can watch the famous Kecak Dance performance against the dramatic ocean backdrop. 

The dramatic Uluwatu cliffs

UBUD came after Nusa Dua, when we headed north in search of more nature and a more active part of the holiday. Leaving the comfort of our resort behind, we rented a beautiful private villa near the centre of Ubud. The private swimming pool replaced the beach, although, during this stay, we spent most of our days out exploring. Our most memorable meals were at Warung Layana by the waterfall, Wedja, with its magical lotus garden, Boni Bali overlooking the Tegalalang rice terraces, and Bebek Tepi Sawah with its very own rice field. We enjoyed browsing for souvenirs and local art at Ubud Art Market, located just across from Ubud Palace. One thing we didn't manage to do - and will definitely add to our list for next time - is the Campuhan Ridge Walk. 

 

Layana Warung overlooking the Layana Waterfall

 

White-water rafting on the Ayung River was the highlight of our Ubud stay. We went with Mason Adventures and navigated around 12 kilometers of level 2 and 3 rapids with a professional guide. It's family-friendly but still quite adventurous! As a lovely bonus, after our rafting session, Mason gifted us free entrance to the Mason Elephant Sanctuary and Lodge, where they rescued Sumatran elephants are cared for and protected from the illegal trade.

 

Tegalalang rice terraces are just north of Ubud and are packed with restaurants offering beautiful views, as well as activities such as the famous Bali swings. They're much more crowded than the UNESCO-protected Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, which are worth visiting of you have an extra day.

 

Free-roaming Balinese macaques at the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary in Ubud is home to more than 1,200 native, free-roaming long-tailed Balinese macaques. Just like at Uluwatu Temple, it's best not to make eye contact with the monkeys or try to interact with them. The sanctuary offers a lovely walk through the forest and is also home to another temple. If you want a more relaxed monkey experience, Sangeh Monkey Forest, about 45 minutes from Canggu, is another option.

Cooking class with Paon Bali was another highlight of our Ubud stay. We took a private family class for the seven of us, where we learned to prepare seven traditional dishes, from sate lilit and chicken curry to urap and kolak pisang. For three hours we chopped, sliced, sauteed, stirred, grilled, and - most importantly - devoured everything we had cooked together. It was a really fun way to experience Balinese culture as a family.

 

Goa Gajah is just a short distance from Layana Waterfall, making it an easy stop after lunch at Layana. The small Hindu temple complex is centred around a carved cave entrance dating back to the 9th century. 

 

Tirta Empul Temple is a Hindu temple dates back to 962 AD with a spring water source considered as the holy water. One can only visit the temple, or participate in a purification ceremony called Melukat, which what we did.

 

Fish pond inside the Tirta Empul Temple complex

SANUR was our final base before our flight back to Europe. It's a lovely coastal town with a  promenade, cute little shops, and plenty of small restaurant along the beach. We had some great and very affordable meals at Warung Beach Breeze in town and Double O Beach Bar, right on the sand. We stayed at a beachfront Mercure and spent our last few days in Bali slowing down and enjoying the beach. We also enjoyed a spa session at Crystalina Spa. 

 

Nusa Lembongan was our final daytrip from Sanur. I chose Nusa Lembongan instead of the much more famous Nusa Penida because I was looking for a quieter experience. The snorkeling that we did with Lembongan Trips was fantastic - we encountered sea turtles and countless colourful fish and corals - but unfortunately, we picked one of the roughest ocean days for our trip. The 30-minutes boat ride was extremely turbulent, and, to be honest, pretty scary! The rough conditions at Manta Bay meant we couldn't see the famous manta rays, but we got an amazing consolation prize: a surprise visit from a school of dolphins!

 

Exploring the colourful underwater world of Gamat Bay in Nusa Lembongan

  

And with that, our 14 days in Bali came to an end - full of adventure, culture, great food, beautiful beaches, and plenty of memories to bring home with us!